Monday, 8 December 2008


There were three very distinct reasons why my dining companion (DC) and I stood out from the rest of the other diners in the packed out room at lunch today. Firstly we weren’t wearing suits, secondly we were probably the youngest diners in the room (now that’s saying something!) and lastly we were also the only table not to have ordered any alcohol as we were both teatotallers (every restaurateurs’ nightmare).

Without further delay I wish to declare that I had one of the best meals this year at Hisbiscus, and to think it was only the set lunch we had. I was pretty sure that every table in the dining room opted for the same deal as well, so we’re all in inspired company. The ambience was gratifyingly classy but without the stuffiness, one needn’t whisper to each other nor feel severely awkward. The service was exemplary and an absolute masterclass in front of room affairs run by the gaffer’s wife. Usual quibble, although minor, included the usual incomprehensible Anglais spoken by the waiters.

I know it's only bread, but this bread was rather special

Amazing free non-alcoholic of apéritif of Hibiscus and pineapple juice

Caramelised Terrine of Welsh Mutton and Foie Gras, Pickled Beetroot, Fresh Lavender Cheese.

Fricassée of Swede confit in Welsh Butter, Iced Ras el Hanout and Swede Velouté

My fantastic mains of veal cottage pie wasn’t your everyday generic type but a posher bespoke version and in more ways than one a concoction worthy of bettering your mum’s version.

DC’s Cornish Pollock was sublime and for a Monday dish, the fish tasted super fresh.
The superiority of the starters and mains meant they were difficult acts to follow, but thankfully the puddings we had passed with flying colours and proved their equal to the other two courses.

Iced date parfait, muscavado sugar and verjus sorbet, italian shortbread

My Iced Date Parfait with Shortbread was inspiring and a memorable, and the companion’s Sweet Potato Tart was judged to be faultless and a perfect end to his own experience.

Fine sweet potato tart, vanilla ice cream and blood orange gel

This set lunch thingy, a testament to M. Bosi, is also an absolutely brilliant ploy to ensure that we all come back for more. I can only imagine his à la carte or tasting menu as nothing short of profoundly enlightening. Hibiscus is at the very least 2 stars material or maybe even three in the not too long future. We Londoners; we’re indeed a worthy and lucky bunch.

NB Table 6, perfect for couples and people watching.

29 Maddox Street
London W1S 2PA


Anonymous said...

I think Bosi is such a talent...really glad you liked it and I fully agree he deserves more from Michelin.
However, his cooking is technically 2* already, having lost that second just because he moved...
Anyway food looks great, especially considering it's the set lunch; he obviously does not skimp on ingredients or quality.

bellaphon said...

Looking forward to full blown dinner.