Saturday, 23 October 2010

10-10-10 menu at the Blueprint Café

As contradictions go I knew that I’ve committed the cardinal sin (a transgression of this blog’s will). So shoot me, whack me, starve me, call me names and lock me up in a Schrödinger's cat box for I duly accepted an invite to a freebie meal courtesy of American Express. The occasion was Amex’s 10-10-10 event in partnership with the increasingly significant London Restaurant Festival. The celebration involved ten notable non-London chefs teaming up with ten of their London counterparts to cook lunch in the ten restaurants headed by the latter to create ten one-off tasting menus that were served on 10th October 2010. I succumbed to the whole idea as soon as I was offered a meal for two at Jeremy Lee’s Blueprint Café. Jeremy Lee, like Paul Merrony and Tom Pemberton, is a chef I admire with great respect; his wonderful dishes befit the real world, devoid of foams or pretensions and certainly not concocted in a chemistry lab. Anyone would be selfish to himself or herself if they turned down the opportunity. Gobsmacked and chuffed I remained. So a big thank you to Alice at MHP for selecting yours truly as far back as early August and this was despite the fact with the lapsed blogging, not posting any related competitions and reciprocating the invite with ad placements on this blog.

I’ve already written favourably about the Blueprint Café once before (here). I shan’t dwell further on its enviable location by the Thames, its wonderful airy and light dining room, and of course the friendly and appraised service. I consistently enthuse over the mature informality at this place.

The pairing of Jeremy Lee and fellow Scotsman Michael Smith from The Three Chimneys in the Isle of Skye was nothing short of impressive. The menu written in plain English (thank goodness!) reflects the chefs’ ideals with creating dishes involving a wide variety of seasonal and fresh ingredients. As you can see with the exception of perhaps Parmesan, most of the ingredients are British or maybe to be more precise Scottish, so no alien stuff like foie gras, gochujang, pata negra, etc here…bliss. I was informed by the waiter that the above menu was priced at 70 quid per person without booze and all the diners (the restaurant was packed and fully booked) were compelled to opt for it. All except…my dining companion. DC is vegetarian and not just any veggie, she forsakes mushrooms and fresh tomatoes like I do with confit of rattlesnake! Shit-ake! Imagine I could never take this woman with me on a holiday to Germany let alone China. So there were two things the restaurant could do, ask her (albeit politely methinks) to walk off the plank into the Thames or no worries Mme we’ll see what the kitchen can do for you. The latter was gratefully fulfilled. Both DC and I had strong reasons to believe that she was the only veggie in the whole dining room. My word how spoilt and lucky that woman is!


What we ate-

Baked salsify, Parmesan
Chanterelles, girolles and goat’s curd flory
The salsify (DC insisted on pronouncing it ending with f-igh but I stuck with fee) was sweet and silky. I hadn’t a clue what the excellent tasting mushrooms’ flory was, I supposed the finish product was supposed to resemble the fleur-de-lys symbol.

DC’s medley of beetroot salad
She loved it, as she’s a beetroot monster in the same way as I’m a wine monster.


A native oyster, black pudding

The only glitch of the entire meal came from the oyster. It was far from fresh and it tasted of something dredged out of a sewer. Fail. The black pudding was an entirely different matter, a most wonderful sample. And there I was telling DC and myself (much to her distaste) that the finest black puddings are to be found in the British Isles, the couple sitting next to us politely broke in and uttered they begged to differ. I later found out they were two German A-lister food bloggers (on an invite as well). It was indeed a delight to have met Herr Paul and his contemporary. They both flew their flags and declared the best black puds hail from here.

DC’s pea and parsley soup
Stupendous she remarked, I tasted a bit of it and agreed.


Mussel and clam broth

A noteworthy effort that tasted fresh and deliciously satisfying. I’m going to attempt this in my own kitchen with the addition of potatoes in time for the cold winter months.

DC’s creamy baby artichokes with polenta
The polenta was the best I’ve had and it wasn't even made by the overrated
Locanda Locatelli!

Here we go the splendid mains of…

rump of venison, pickled prunes, damson and sloe

…might prove too rare for some but as far as I’m concerned it’s the only way to eat bambi…

…the damson and sloe sauce was a welcome change from the usual juniper variety. (Admission moment- I left the prunes, can’t stand them and likewise apricots, snakes, nick clegg, etc)

Accompaniments of roast potatoes, beetroot, chard and carrots.

A substantial amount of adult grape juice was shamelessly quaffed

Dishing out the pudding courses in the kitchen

Lemon posset with blaeberries

Every meal I have at any restaurants includes a stand-out and this was it. It was scrumptiously memorable but the portion was tiny! We wanted more but to no avail as the waiter warned us about the next pudding to come.

Hot marmalade pudding and Drambuie custard

A top-notch pud and fitting precursor to what to expect on Christmas Day. If anything this dish made by Michael Smith tasted miles better than any traditional Christmas pudding I’ve scoffed. Bravo.

Mr Smith having a well-earned rest

Handmade chocs

The sojourn in its entirety lasted just under four hours.

The meal was a qualified success and I was also extremely pleased that Jeremy Lee was announced the winner in the One Person’s Passion category of the London Restaurant Festival 2010 Awards. So once again a big thanks to Messrs Lee and Smith, Amex, the staff at Blueprint and of course Alice Harper. You may all address me as blaggerphon for a limited period.




28 Shad Thames

London SE1 2YD

www.blueprintcafe.co.uk

Friday, 3 September 2010

A Little Of What You Fancy








Not a review but a nudge and a couple of winks to egg you on about a friend’s new resto. Give it a go and let us know how you get on.




464 Kingsland Road

London E8 4AE

www.alittleofwhatyoufancy.info

Tuesday, 31 August 2010

The Hackney Pearl redux

05/03/11


Grilled onglet with Paris Café butter and thrice cooked chips- £14.70.

Superb tasting steak and suitably well bloodied but let down by the skin-on chips (skin = indolence) that were anything but thrice cooked.

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The Hackney Pearl resonates my appetite, both unfailingly and rewardingly.

I cannot think of better place to spend the rest of your well-earned Sunday afternoon than here.

The dining room embraces natural daylight with dignified intent. The service is warm and charming.

I always start with one of the best Bloody Marys found in the capital.

Great starters are offered on the menu to be shared and savoured.

Big fat juicy pilchards Cornish Sardines.
I could quite easily devour half a dozen of these with a bottle of Pouilly-Fumé


Chicken liver pate, toast and cornichons

I don't usually dig chicken livers but The Hackney Pearl ensured otherwise.
Absolutely delicious.

A second Bloody Mary maintains the craving for the next course!

The mains are impressive and luscious.

Now who needs Petersham Nurseries, when similar grub can be had here for less than half the price!

Roast lamb rump, flageolet beans and wild onion pesto.
I was suitably overwhelmed by this dish and will order and order again.

Vegetarian meze platter with Turkish bread.

The houmous and Balkan slaw were a resounding success.

Pork chop (from a happy pig I presume), new potatoes and apple doo-dah.

Sweet and tender tasting meat. Beautiful.

A regular pud at the Pearl that's Eton Mess.

Don't fret about piling on the pounds since a hard workout is called for the next day at the gym!

Alas the Pearl is not without faults; the flat white served here (using Square Mile beans no less) is below average. I blame the machine used.

The folks at The Hackney Pearl have put the Wick on the map and that's even before the Olympic Stadium is completed. See you there on Sundays. Highly recommended.



11 Prince Edward Road

(Grnd Flr Oslo House East Wing)
Hackney Wick, E9 5LX


http://thehackneypearl.com

Friday, 20 August 2010

Dishoom

A rather fine food blogger told me recently that he would weep if he saw another review of Dishoom, Sushi Ga Ga or Goldfish City. Well, I too wept like a baby with the overabundance of Bar Boulud postings (which incidentally I haven’t been and nor do I intend to. This is simply because of the over-praising of the charcuterie platter and the DBGB burger that might incite the insidious prejudices I may harbour and thus write about.) As for this post, I could but only drum up two lame excuses for doing so. Dishoom is directly opposite my daughter’s fave memorabilia store and me blog is beginning to look dormant.

Dishoom is in three+ words; refreshing, good (certainly not brill), and not cheap. When we visited the place it had already garnered enough potential and repute with the congruous amount of YBAs (Young Brithish Asians) seen lunching. The modernity of the interiors made it hard for me to appreciate or perhaps realise the ‘faded elegance’ of the original Bombay cafés that Dishoom is supposedly modelled on but that said, the service was entirely excellent. The menu is one of those that are created to deceive and entice both the brain and palate. A little of what you fancy, and this, and that, and before long you find yourself settling the bill with plastic because you thought a 20 quid note would suffice for a ‘café’ meal. This is the unfortunate curse that’s part and parcel with joints that offer small plates or tapas!

What we had-

Dishoom Calamari
As promised on the menu, it was indeed zesty and spicy. The squids were beautifully cooked.

Roomali Roll of Malai Chicken

A wrap by any other name consisting of mildly spiced chicken, herbs, rabbit fodder and chutney. Daughter thought it was overridden with herbs (coriander she meant) and I agreed. If you want an Indian inspired wrap, then Mooli’s is truly indicative.

Desi Fish Fingers

Was kinda expecting Birds Eye Fish Fingers with a bit of twist. Alas, not so, breadcrumbs where art thou? True the fish were cooked to perfection but the overgenerous amounts of chilli powder in the batter made it impossible to identify whether it was cod, haddock or pollock. I suppose it can only be good news for the latter as it can no longer be classified as cat food at Dishoom.

Bombay Sausages

Slices of tiny chipolatas in Bombay masala. Now if any nation wish to modify our venerable banger then as far as I know only the Thais have done it well, see here . Unfulfilling. The dish would’ve been better if they served the chipolatas whole, but then again this would mean the curtailing of operating margins for the restaurant. However, the masala bit was redeeming; delicious and moreish.

House black daal
Posh tarka dhal to the chicken tikka masala praiseworthies. Daughter suggested it was a Marmite dip, I thought it was the best dish served at Dishoom. It was so perfect you could drink it (albeit without burning yourself) instead of eating it. Yum. This is one of the reasons apart form the service I’ll revisit Dishoom.

Three small plates, one wrap, a veg side (dhal is classed as so in 90% of Indian menus in Britain) and two bottles of sparkling filtered Thames; Dishoom is hardly cheap. But I would go back to sample the grills, biryanis and a bit of booze. Credit cards need apply here.


St Martin's Courtyard
12 Upper St Martin's Lane
Covent Garden

London, WC2H


www.dishoom.com

Wednesday, 9 June 2010

Red 'N' Hot (Euston)

You can tell that I’ve been spiritless of late with my postings. So here’s the latest offering-


This was previously Snazz Sichuan, my favourite Sichuan restaurant in London that has been taken over by the Red ‘N’ Hot group. As checked out by Kake, the same chef remains in place.

What we had and what I thought-

Hot and numbing beef- disappointing, despite the numbing and spicy effect the beef tasted of anything but.

Fire exploded kidney flowers was tender and excellent. The kidneys were obviously cleaned and rinsed thoroughly as the weewee smell was absent.

Sichuan-style pig's blood mix- absolutely gorgeous, the Spam added to the bowl was a bonus. If you can eat white tofu, then the cubes of pig’s blood tastes more or less the same. Highly recommended.

Mr Noodles'
choice of special fried chicken with dry chilli and cumin- another brilliant dish, I didn’t mind sweating like the proverbial gnawing on those deep-fried chilles!

Fish soup with pickled vegetables- not a patch on my previous visits, lacked the acidity of the pickled greens. The sea bass fillets were perfectly cooked though.

Pea shoots in rich broth- portion was huge for a veg dish, but thankfully not overcooked. The dish needed a bit more seasoning as it was bordering on being bland.

Dan dan noodles- better than the consistently overcooked shite served at Chilli Cool but Barshu is still the best.

Zhong's crescent dumplings- no complaints, ‘harmonious victuals for make benefit glorious nation of China’

I’m not convinced that the old kitchen cooks of Snazz Sichuan have been retained here in its entirety, the dishes I ate lacked the wow factor. But as tossup between its neighbour Chilli Cool and Red ‘N’ Hot, I would go for the latter. The service here is helpful and friendly and the ambience is a lot more comfy. As for now Barshu is still my favourite destination for Sichuan food, it’s expensive, so save up.

Full credit to Red ‘N’ Hot for being transparent (unheard of in Chinese restaurants) with their no-nonsense fully itemised and descriptive bills.



37 Chalton Street
Euston,
London NW1 1JD


www.rednhotgroup.com

Wednesday, 12 May 2010

Sichuan Restaurant

Came here not too long ago and had a wonderful evening with the following: the über intelligent Kake, ‘for she has no foes’ Su-Lin, Mr Genial aka Ewan, a couple of friends from RGL; James and Marna and lest I forget the redoubtable Mr Noodles.

The beauty with this post is I don’t have to write much and you don’t have to suffer. So if you need to know more about the place then read here, here and here.




116 Churchfield Road
London W3 6BY

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

The Shed

I feel remorseful that I haven’t posted this earlier. I’ve been to a lot of supper clubs during the past 14 months but I must say that The Shed is indeed one of the best and certainly the most at ease as well. I suppose the ease is to do with the ace hosts Nicola and Andrew actually dining with the guests themselves. Came here with my restaurateur chum, KC who declared Nicola’s cooking as wonderful home-cooking without the usual pretence that’s endemic in the supper club scene. I couldn’t agree more, The Shed likes food and we love The Shed.

The lazy Sunday meal is normally served in the shed but when we were there the muddy garden courtesy of the February weather prompted Plan B; we supped in the hosts’ living room instead.

The red gingham is The Shed’s trademark

Music was provided by DJ-in-residence, Andrew

Spiced pumpkin soup with garlic croutons and Emmett’s black bacon

A monumental moment

Slow roast lamb, Mujadara (lentil and rice dish), grilled aubergine and brocs,
The lamb was delectable; beautifully pink and melting.

An obvious success as everyone either had seconds or thirds

The pause and break before the pudding course

Home-baked chocolate brownie

Home-made Lemon tart

Excellent evening and big thanks to Nicola and Andrew. A solid recommendation is called for, so do yourself a favour and enjoy The Shed.





What I paid.



theshedlikesfood.blogspot.com