Wednesday, 28 January 2009

Aaya- Requiescat in pace

This is in effect a posthumous posting for a high end Japanese restaurant that went belly up back in mid January. Aaya was based in Soho. The two reviews that follow were posted last year on Trusted Places.



14/08/08

Nouveau Japanese Tuck


First and foremost I found both the service and ambience bordering on the near perfect 10. Lunch with my 'I really only eat Japanese' daughter at this place was inevitable.
The siganture dish of Tuna Katsu Tataki was the best of the lot, melt in the mouth with crunch, they could well put this dish on the map like what Nobu did with the Black Cod. The Chicken Teriyaki was perfectly cooked and tender but let down by the over saltiness of the teriyaki marinade.

Both the Mixed Tempura and Soft Shell Crab Roll were pretty generic, not a patch on either Dinings or Chisou.

The final dish of Sea Bream Meishi was a strange, it was more of a risotto and I kept thinking about where's my grated parmesan. Ingredients are obviously well sourced and the dishes beautifully presented, for Nouveau Japanese tuck it needs more assurance on the overall taste side of things. I shall but only come back to sample the other dishes in the not too distant future.


12/10/08

Cool Sophistication

Right I did come back and it’s now officially the 2008 winner of the London Restaurant Awards category of Oriental Restaurant of the Year. Yes it’s good, even more so with the introductory set lunch menus during these belt-tightening times (all within £15.00 without booze).

My set of Eel was good enough to be profoundly salivating and one of the companions’ Tempura set was deemed utterly delicious and the batter entirely ethereal.

My observation with my daughter’s choice of sushi was immediately impressive; there was something about the way these morsels were prepared and moulded, it somewhat reminded me of the way that they can only be achieved in kitchen that caters for some supreme being alone. The rice in the Sushi set was perfectly cooked (not easy with London’s hard water) and the fish perfectly fresh (not bad considering Billingsgate doesn’t start trading till 48 hours later).

À la carte selections were equally enthralling. The tuna katsu tataki and and soba noodle maki rolls were perfectly administered and accomplished. Subtle hints of El Bulli and the Fat Duck can also be found here, intensely flavoured accompaniments of tiny chunks Soy and Ginger jelly found scattered in these dishes.

But my standout was the Saikyo miso baby back ribs, lusciously melt in the mouth before you can even dictate the full name of the dish in words.

Finally, decent puddings do actually exist at an oriental restaurant! Aaya has obviously done their homework on this issue with their Shiso pannacotta and Poached Pear with Sake Jelly.

The Green Tea Ice Cream was proclaimed by my daughter as grown up food for little people; near sugarless but perfectly satisfying.

Service was cool and charming, come to think of it I think all the staff members were nothing but.
I would have conceded and given this place a total upgrade to 5 stars from my first review. Unfortunately no, this was due to the poorly stained teacups and the Tatami mats used to decorate the high, high ceilings. These mats are meant to stepped on and not hover above the diners’ heads, I’ve been told it’s counter productive and insulting. Oh well, these two things aside I wouldn’t be surprised if a Michelin star is awarded soon.

Tuesday, 27 January 2009

J'adore le Döner...or Notting Hill Grill & Kebabs

28/08/09
This place has gone downhill with a change of supplier of the doner.
Unbelievably shit.
I’m going to stick to the shish and 9V battery chicken from now on, the only problem is I’ll have to wait a lot longer for the cooking procedure. Damn, damn, damn!

08/06/09
Everything but the wool*

Let’s be brutally realistic about this, if most us have had (or still attempting to) the following of either Roast Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad at SJS or Lambs' Sweetbreads, Green Beans and Mint at Hereford Road or the humble haggis; then we shouldn’t turn up our noses at the misunderstood Doner kebab. It may well be grisly greasy and highly questionable but by golly it’s pretty satisfying. You know you love it but hate to admit to it, no worries it’s only human nature. Enjoy the sandwich with a glass of Kiwi Pinot Noir or in my case a large mug of Twinings 1706 (with milk no less).

There’s one thing that makes my blood boil with any kebab joints and that’s when the chap who’s preparing my kebab starts to handle the skewers of raw meat simultaneously with his bare hands! The tsunami of health and hygiene abuses starts to make one gravely despondent. I politely make a point of this and 9/10 cases think that I’m an off-duty Environmental Health officer. Defaulted rectification but totally unnecessary in the first place. Good luck.


*You heard (read or bleated) it here first.

£3.95 for a small sandwich
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Yes even yours truly can be a food whore. This place is located in between two places that advocate the main ingredient of battery hens* in their dishes; Nando’s and KFC. Jay Rayner’s contribution on Channel 4 did little to put me off this once-monthly treat of connective tissue (CT) and mechanically recovered meat (MRM) sandwich.

What is it with Doner kebab that makes it so alluring to the post pub boozers and teetotallers like myself? Well disgusting as it may sound, I think it’s precisely the inclusion of both the CT and MRM that makes it so darn addictive and of course the usual huge doses of salt and lovely MSG. I hazard to suggest that the pure meat content is probably bordering on 10% and if one were to upset that balance of ingredients, the doner will end up even more unloved and untouched. Similar über processed foods that also include frankfurters and Spam (obviously consumed with care and moderation) can and will always tickle the appetite despite the denials we choose to uphold instead.

Oh Boy, this is good.

Before I sign off I would like to dedicate this write up to Mahmut Aygun, the creator of the döner kebab, who died recently.

The large doner set me back £4.95

40B Notting Hill Gate
Holland Park

London W11 3HX


*I find it amazing how the consumption of battery hens is lambasted constantly, especially when a large proportion of the country’s population adores Chicken Tikka Masala. We also ignore the fact that a huge majority of halal birds served in this country are anything but free range and organic. I’m pretty damn sure that Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall enjoys his Chicken Jalfrezi at his local Indian. How annoyingly hypocritical!



Monday, 26 January 2009

Esarn Kheaw


You know how we all strive for authenticity when the topic of cuisine from around the world arrives. Questions like where do we go for the best pho, or who serves the definitive ‘fire-exploded kidney flowers’ and indeed if we can’t make it to the Andes where in London can we seek out The Cuy chactado instead? It’s always gratifying to witness Italians (fussy lot they are) dining in Locatelli but wouldn’t been seen embalmed in Café Uno, or Asians (ditto fussy) tucking in at Tayyabs instead of let’s say a typical curry improvisation like Mill Hill Tandoori and of course the Chinese (fussy but thankfully blessed with enough appropriate eateries in the capital) wouldn’t touch Mr Chow with a barge pole.

Esarn Kheaw is one such restaurant, it fits the criteria of the first paragraph; real Thai food (well the Northeast at least) and Thai diners have been seen dining her
e (an amazing feat in itself). EK is located in the United Nations’ vicinity of West London otherwise known as Shepherd’s Bush.

Mr Puntar

It’s run by a pretty miserable chap known as Mr Puntar, to be fair he has mellowed considerably (he smiles naturally now as opposed to forcibly subjected to) of late and has also been known to crack rather unfunny jokes (well it’s the effort that counts in the end) with diners. The dining room is reminiscent of time stood still from the early eighties, ugly carpet designs and rickety furniture come to mind.

Oh, lest I forget, another good test for whether the tag of ‘The Real Thai’ is deserved; the entire side of one of the walls at EK is wholly dedicated (or enshrined) to the King and Queen of Thailand, a commitment beyond belief!

The food here is authentic. I’m qualified to state this, as three of my Thai buddies are chefs working in various inferior conjoined Thai/pub joints. If they want some Thai, this is apparently the only place in London worth its ‘pad thai’.

Super intense Tom Yum Koong- properly sour, spicy and wonderfully fragrant. Lovely soup.

Spiced Papaya Salad (Northeast style)- pungent, sour and super chilli hot. Excellent.

Son-in-Law’s Eggs (famous Thai standard)- deep fried (hard boiled) egg in sweet and sour sauce. This has got to be one of the biggest rip off dishes in the history of catering. I’m effectively looking at one sliced up egg (battery dare I say) and we’ve been charged £6.95 for it. Poor show Mr Puntar!

Num Prik Pla Sod (Northeast special)- should be renamed numb sod. Although initially tantalising, this fishy dip served with raw veg progressively became inedible, its Scoville rating must have been prohibitive. The Thais don’t do lassi (wish they had), the cold lemonades we had did very little to extinguish the fire on our tongues.

Spiced Pork (another Northeast special)- Chargrilled pork. Amazing, but eaten with care due to the copious amount of chopped Bird's Eye peppers.

EK is a bloody marvel of a restaurant, once you’ve been here it’s unlikely you’ll want to seek out the other so called Thai restaurants (except perhaps my much loved Market Grill). Absolute authenticity of any cuisine does not always appeal to every member of the public but at least we must all be grateful to EK for its existence; real Thai served here mate, take it or leave it!

My previous review at Trusted Places.



314 Uxbridge Road

Shepherd's Bush

London. W12 7LJ


www.esarnkheaw.com

Sunday, 25 January 2009

Le Bouchon Breton

19/04/09
Sunday Lunch at the terrace.
How can one say no?
Roast Leg of Lamb served with Goats Cheese Mash and Green Beans
A well deceived looking platter.
Tough elastic tissue or do they call it gristle or cartilage. My jaws can't chew on this and my tummy certainly can't digest it. Inedible dish. I left all the meat on the plate. When the plate was whisked away the waiter quite clearly didn't bother asking how it was.
Astoundingly pathetic!
15 minutes after my disastrous lamb mains, I asked the suited French 'surveillant' about the pud. He then, rather condescendingly I may add, lectured yours truly on LBB's strict policy of refraining from the use of microwave ovens. They warm things up the proper way, in real gas fired ovens! Well guess what, the Apple Tart Tatin was colder than lukewarm...poor show! Like the mains, I left half of it. A word with the Brit 'manager' only culminated in some wry facial expression.
Two probable reasons for today's disappointment, by choosing the set instead of a la carte (plus tap water!), I effectively 'asked' for it and the second reason is some places have their off days, today holds true here. I'm prepared to give this place another chance, so watch this space.
Truth be told- £12 for 2 courses is downright commendable.

M.Roux Jr, if you're reading this, today's lunch was downright miserable, it would be nice to encourage your staff to acknowledge any shortcomings. If there are misgivings about diners opting for the set menus, then it shouldn't be offered in the first place!

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Immense value meals are to be found here, just don't expect life changing experiences. I love to spend Sundays here.

Scroll down for the more pics.

My first visit to Le Bouchon Breton was purely by default but ultimately impressive. The location is right…oh I can’t write about this anymore! All I can say is that on my second visit, the following points were confirmed; the food here makes me happy, the service likewise and that wonderfully buzzy location. This place serves traditional French grub without the pomp. Quite simply, Le Bouchon Breton is a true brasserie in every sense of the word and that certainly cannot be attributed to Le Café Anglais. Please read my first visit here.

6 different oysters from France and the British Isles. As always, the two smallest ones (also the costliest) tasted the best, Les Belons No 2 at 3 o'clock and Loch Ryan Native No 2 at 9 o'clock. The prawns were super fresh and delicious.

La Choucroute Alsacienne (Sauerkraut braised in Riesling with Smoked and Salted Pork Meat and Sausages) is even better than the one I had at Galvin's. This dish is simply divine, in fact very nearly profound. You won't find this dish served in its entirety in London except here.

Profiteroles a la Glace Vanille, sauce Chocolat- forget and postpone all diets, this decadent pudding will lead you into temptation.



As if there was a shortage of hot dark chocolate sauce.



Oh Lordy, Tarte Tatin Glace Vanille et Sauce Caramel- I know that I'm going down for this; in the words of a certain Mr Winner, 'it was historic!'


I never said it was cheap.

1st Floor
8 Horner Square

Old Spitalfields Market

London E1 6EW

www.lebouchon.co.uk




15/02/09
Spectacular Set Lunch at £15.00

Wonderful warm and fresh baguette

Velouté of carrot with orange zest- ohh...the perfume of it!

Lovely brussels

Gigot d'Agneau

...or leg of lamb by any other name.

Incredible pudding of...

Dark and white chocolate praline cake- this is all too certain to die for!

That bloody bottle of Evian managed to infiltrate!